Once you have made a pendant, the next decision is one most people give about thirty seconds of thought: what to hang it on. That is a mistake, because the necklace chain types you choose will change how the pendant sits, how it moves, and whether the whole thing looks finished or improvised. A good pendant on the wrong chain looks like a good pendant on the wrong chain, and everyone can tell.
Why the chain matters as much as the pendant
A chain does three jobs at once. It carries the weight, it sets the drape, and it provides a visual frame. Get the gauge wrong and a heavy pendant will drag a fine chain into a V shape at the front. Get the style wrong and a busy, textured chain will compete with a piece you spent an evening making.
The general rule is that the chain should be quieter than the pendant. If you have made something detailed, textured or stone-set, choose a plain chain and let the pendant speak. If your pendant is a simple polished disc, a chain with more character can carry some of the interest.
The main necklace chain types
Cable chain is the default for good reason: simple oval links, joined flat, in any gauge you like. It drapes well, it is easy to repair, and it suits almost every pendant. If you are unsure, buy a cable chain.
Curb chain has links that are twisted and flattened so they lie in one plane. It reads as slightly more substantial and slightly more masculine, and it holds a pendant square without twisting.
Rolo or belcher chain uses round links of equal size. It is a little rounder and softer in appearance than cable, and it wears very well because there is no directional weak point.
Box chain is made of square links that form a smooth, angular rope. It looks refined and takes weight well for its thickness, but a sharp kink is close to impossible to straighten out, so it is not the chain for daily rough treatment.
Snake chain is smooth, flexible and very sleek, and it suits a slide pendant with a wide bail. It shares the box chain's weakness: once it kinks, it stays kinked.
Rope chain twists several strands together for a heavier, more decorative look. It is strong, but it is a statement in itself, so pair it with a plain pendant or not at all.
Singapore chain is a twisted curb variant that catches light beautifully and is often the cheapest sparkle you can add. It tangles more readily than most.
Matching the chain to your pendant
Start with weight. Hold the pendant in your hand: if it feels solid, choose a chain of at least 1.2mm, and preferably more. A fired silver clay piece is denser than it looks, because after firing it is 99.9% fine silver all the way through rather than a hollow stamping.
Then look at the bail or hole. A narrow drilled hole needs a jump ring between the pendant and the chain so the pendant can rotate freely and face forwards. A wide bail can take the chain directly, which gives a cleaner line. If you are still planning your piece, our guide on how to use silver clay covers making the hole at the right stage.
It is worth remembering that the piece will shrink by roughly 8-10% during firing, so a hole that looks generous in the wet clay will end up noticeably smaller. The complete guide to silver clay explains why that happens.
Length, and where the pendant will sit
Chain length changes the character of a necklace more than the chain type does. As a rough guide for adults: 40-42cm sits at the base of the neck, 45cm is the standard pendant length and falls just below the collarbone, 50cm sits at the top of the neckline, and 60cm falls near the sternum and works well over a jumper.
If you are making a piece as a gift and cannot measure, 45cm with a 5cm extender is the safest choice by a wide margin.
Fine silver, sterling and plating
Chains are usually sold in sterling silver (925), which is harder than fine silver and better suited to something that flexes constantly. Pairing a sterling chain with a fine silver pendant is completely normal and standard practice.
What is worth avoiding is a plated chain: the plating wears through at the points of most movement, and you will end up with a base-metal chain holding a solid silver pendant. If you have not made the pendant yet, the silver clay starter kit includes the clay, torch, tools, cubic zirconia and instructions to make one at your kitchen table, and we ship worldwide with duties covered.
